Wouldn't it be great if, when we decided to get a new dog, we could invite our friends and family over one weekend and they would bring us all the supplies we need for our new bundle of…eh…fur? They could wrap up little toys and leashes in cute bone shaped boxes. There would be a shiny new dog kennel sitting in the corner of the room with a big baby blue or pink bow on it. We could serve up a cake in the shape of a doggie paw and play games like "chase your tail" or that ever so popular relay game "Dress the puppy blindfolded". Okay, back to reality. Unfortunately, showers are reserved for weddings and babies so here is a list to help you get started on your journey!:
Leash & Collar: 6 foot nylon leash is the most versatile for all breeds. I feel that the 4 foot leashes are too short for an enjoyable walk once they learn how to walk politely on a lead. If you are uncomfortable with them 6 feet away from you, they may need some leash walking lessons! A simply nylon buckle collar is all you need for your new puppy. If you are contemplating a harness because you don’t want them to pull and hurt themselves, you are better off training them not to pull while walking because a harness can make them pull more, which could hurt you! For their first collar you are better off going with something inexpensive because they will grow out of it. Save the fancy collar for when they are done growing!
ID Tag/Microchipping: Most pet stores will have a machine that engraves I.D. tags for your pet's collar. I would recommend getting one of these made as well as checking at your vet's office about a procedure called microchipping. It is a procedure where a microchip the size of a grain of rice is embedded under their skin (usually between the shoulder blades) that identifies you as their owner. Most shelters and vets offices have scanners to help identify lost pets with microchips. It is also an added precaution against theft because a dog-napper can easily remove a collar and I.D. tag but cannot remove a microchip!
Food: I could definitely get into a long discussion about quality foods but if you want more in depth advice, please let me know as I will try to keep it short here. The bottom line is find a good quality food, it is worth the price! If the main ingredient is corn there will be more in your pooper scooper than there will be nourishing your dog!
Food Bowl & Water Bowl- If you have a large breed puppy make sure you get a bowl big enough to hold what they will be eating when full grown or you will end up buying another set later!
Treats- If you will be using treats to train your new puppy there are a few things to watch out for in the "Pupperoni Aisle". Treats are actually designed to only be about 10% of your dog's diet so they are often high in fat and sugar content. While training your new puppy, it is very possible that they will be getting more than 10% of their diets in treats so we must pick a nutritious treat. Look for a treat that lists a meat as it's first ingredient. Some treats that will remain anonymous are not only shaped like meat, but named after a meat product and yet have not one meat listed in their ingredients! Secondly, try to find a treat without sugar in them, or at least not listed as the top 5 ingredients (watch out, it isn't always listed as sugar but sometimes under clever names like sucrose :-o). Finally, look for a treat with a lower fat content, you can find treats that are under 10% fat, while others can be almost all fat!
Bones/Chews- It is definitely important to have appropriate items to chew on readily available to your puppy. However, you want to be careful when picking out bones/ chews for them, especially while they are still puppies. While rawhide is a very popular choice among dog owners, it is not the best option for your new puppy. Dogs do not digest rawhide very well, which is not a big problem for a dog who slowly chews off tiny pieces of their bone and chews them up well. However, that does not describe most of the puppies I have been around. Most puppies love to bite off huge chunks whenever they can and swallow them. That rawhide is hard for them to digest and in some instances can cause intestinal blockages. If you are shopping for rawhide, the best option is called "granulated rawhide" it is small pieces compressed together that is designed to break apart easier. However, a better option all together would be chews called "bully sticks" I will leave what they are made out of up to you and a google search, but they are much more digestible and dogs LOVE them!
Flea and Tick Prevention- when shopping for flea and tick prevention for your new puppy, my advice is find what works best for you and your puppy and stick with it! I know that isn't very enlightening but if there is one thing I have learned over the years of talking to pet owners its this: I cannot think of one brand of flea and tick prevention that hasn't been praised by someone I have talked to. Some people swear by the less expensive products while others can't live without the premium stuff. The only insight I can give you is that many veterinarians are now carrying a pill for flea prevention and it works wonderfully in my experience. I use it with my own dog and like that it is a pill instead of a topical treatment because many dogs have had severe reactions to the topical treatments. The pill only works for fleas and not ticks, but it does it's job amazingly well. One last note, if you live in an environment very conducive to the reproduction of fleas or ticks (a woody creek area outside your back door, for instance) no spot on treatment alone will keep your pet safe. You should spray your yard and try to keep it mowed as regularly as possible, in addition to whatever program your pet is on.
Toys- There are many toys made specifically for puppies going through the teething stage, some of them even pop in the freezer for added enjoyment. Don't invest in expensive toys until you get to know your puppy and what they like to play with (one puppy might like stuffed toys while another might love the rubber toys).
Crate/Kennel- A crate is a very important purchase when acquiring a puppy, it will help with their housebreaking, teach them how to be alone, and give them a place they feel safe. There are two main types of crates that you will find in most pet stores and there are pros and cons to each, depending on your personal needs. The first is a plastic kennel that is mostly enclosed with vents on the sides and usually a metal door on the front. The second would be a wire crate that is usually made of black or silver metal and is more like an open "cage" if you will. Below are areas to consider when purchasing a crate and which one performs better in that area.
Travel- If you will be doing any flying, most plastic kennels are airline approved while the metal crates are not. However, if you tend to travel by car, a wire crate might be the better option because it folds up to the size of a suitcase when not being used.
Sizing- Large Breed Puppy or Toy Breed? If you are shopping for a large breed dog, you may want to look into the wire crates because they come with a "divider Panel" which allows you to purchase only one crate (the one they will eventually fit at full size) and allow it to grow with them. Whereas with the plastic crate you will likely end up with a stair-step display of several crates at your next garage sale. If you have a toy breed you can probably find a crate that will work for them from puppyhood to adulthood without a divider panel.
Cleaning- This is one category where both types have pros so you must decide which one is more important to you. A wire crate can be very helpful when first housetraining a puppy because the bottom tray slides right out for easy cleaning. However since it is so open, it may not contain the mess to your puppy's crate, depending on how active your puppy has been. The plastic kennel is nice in the sense that it does keep pet messes more contained as well as any dog hair or dirt that may be in the kennel. However, they are much harder to clean. You must either take the crate apart, or crawl inside it to clean it while your dog looks at you like you've gone mad. :)
Den-like?- For some dogs, the plastic kennel may be more comforting to them because it better represents their idea of a "den" which would be more enclosed than the wire cages. However, some dogs do not relish in the extra confining feeling of the plastic kennel and may enjoy the openness of a wire crate instead.
Dog Bed- What's cuter than going to the store and buying the cutest little dog bed for the cutest little puppy in the whole world? Not having to clean up what seems like enough stuffing for your own bed strewn all over your house…Time and time again, I have new puppy owners ask me why their little poochie tore apart their bed and here is my answer. What do most of their toys look like? Stuffing covered with fabric What is their bed made of? Stuffing covered with fabric. So until your new best friend has gotten through his teething stage, gets the idea of potty training, AND has learned a few manners, beds are best left in areas where they are fully supervised and NOT in their kennel with them.
Grooming Supplies- It's hard to believe when you bring that 8 week puppy home that he will eventually be a lot hairier, and stinkier at times. So, grooming supplies often get pushed to the backburner and replaced with more fun ,cutesy puppy items like sweaters or little doggie hats. However, since your new bundle of fur will need grooming later in life, it makes your life easier to get him used to it sooner rather than later. It's not unlike giving newborn babies baths, they don't crawl around in the dirt yet so they don't get that dirty. But imagine trying to introduce a new thing called baths when they do start crawling, what a nightmare that would be! So you should make grooming routines a habit when your puppy is very young because they will accept it as a normal part of life. A list of grooming supplies you will need depending on what breed you have chosen are:
Nail trimmers-I cannot stress enough how important it is to get them used to this routine as early as possible!
Brush/Comb- there are different brushes and combs depending on the length and texture of your dogs hair. Most of them are labeled to help you choose but feel free to ask someone who works there.
Shampoo- I would recommend a puppy shampoo that is gentle and tearless to avoid a bad first impression of baths.
Toothbrush and toothpaste-yes I said a toothbrush for your dog. Now before you stop reading this thinking I am some crazy person who thinks dogs are people, consider this: If you brush your dog's teeth you may be able to avoid the possibility of your dogs teeth rotting and falling out prematurely or a possible "professional" cleaning by your vet. The first option requires you to "cook" for your dog so he doesn’t have to chew his food seeing as how he has no teeth. The second option requires a vet to put your dog under anesthesia to professionally clean his teeth. That is not only nerve wracking but expensive as well.
Leash & Collar: 6 foot nylon leash is the most versatile for all breeds. I feel that the 4 foot leashes are too short for an enjoyable walk once they learn how to walk politely on a lead. If you are uncomfortable with them 6 feet away from you, they may need some leash walking lessons! A simply nylon buckle collar is all you need for your new puppy. If you are contemplating a harness because you don’t want them to pull and hurt themselves, you are better off training them not to pull while walking because a harness can make them pull more, which could hurt you! For their first collar you are better off going with something inexpensive because they will grow out of it. Save the fancy collar for when they are done growing!
ID Tag/Microchipping: Most pet stores will have a machine that engraves I.D. tags for your pet's collar. I would recommend getting one of these made as well as checking at your vet's office about a procedure called microchipping. It is a procedure where a microchip the size of a grain of rice is embedded under their skin (usually between the shoulder blades) that identifies you as their owner. Most shelters and vets offices have scanners to help identify lost pets with microchips. It is also an added precaution against theft because a dog-napper can easily remove a collar and I.D. tag but cannot remove a microchip!
Food: I could definitely get into a long discussion about quality foods but if you want more in depth advice, please let me know as I will try to keep it short here. The bottom line is find a good quality food, it is worth the price! If the main ingredient is corn there will be more in your pooper scooper than there will be nourishing your dog!
Food Bowl & Water Bowl- If you have a large breed puppy make sure you get a bowl big enough to hold what they will be eating when full grown or you will end up buying another set later!
Treats- If you will be using treats to train your new puppy there are a few things to watch out for in the "Pupperoni Aisle". Treats are actually designed to only be about 10% of your dog's diet so they are often high in fat and sugar content. While training your new puppy, it is very possible that they will be getting more than 10% of their diets in treats so we must pick a nutritious treat. Look for a treat that lists a meat as it's first ingredient. Some treats that will remain anonymous are not only shaped like meat, but named after a meat product and yet have not one meat listed in their ingredients! Secondly, try to find a treat without sugar in them, or at least not listed as the top 5 ingredients (watch out, it isn't always listed as sugar but sometimes under clever names like sucrose :-o). Finally, look for a treat with a lower fat content, you can find treats that are under 10% fat, while others can be almost all fat!
Bones/Chews- It is definitely important to have appropriate items to chew on readily available to your puppy. However, you want to be careful when picking out bones/ chews for them, especially while they are still puppies. While rawhide is a very popular choice among dog owners, it is not the best option for your new puppy. Dogs do not digest rawhide very well, which is not a big problem for a dog who slowly chews off tiny pieces of their bone and chews them up well. However, that does not describe most of the puppies I have been around. Most puppies love to bite off huge chunks whenever they can and swallow them. That rawhide is hard for them to digest and in some instances can cause intestinal blockages. If you are shopping for rawhide, the best option is called "granulated rawhide" it is small pieces compressed together that is designed to break apart easier. However, a better option all together would be chews called "bully sticks" I will leave what they are made out of up to you and a google search, but they are much more digestible and dogs LOVE them!
Flea and Tick Prevention- when shopping for flea and tick prevention for your new puppy, my advice is find what works best for you and your puppy and stick with it! I know that isn't very enlightening but if there is one thing I have learned over the years of talking to pet owners its this: I cannot think of one brand of flea and tick prevention that hasn't been praised by someone I have talked to. Some people swear by the less expensive products while others can't live without the premium stuff. The only insight I can give you is that many veterinarians are now carrying a pill for flea prevention and it works wonderfully in my experience. I use it with my own dog and like that it is a pill instead of a topical treatment because many dogs have had severe reactions to the topical treatments. The pill only works for fleas and not ticks, but it does it's job amazingly well. One last note, if you live in an environment very conducive to the reproduction of fleas or ticks (a woody creek area outside your back door, for instance) no spot on treatment alone will keep your pet safe. You should spray your yard and try to keep it mowed as regularly as possible, in addition to whatever program your pet is on.
Toys- There are many toys made specifically for puppies going through the teething stage, some of them even pop in the freezer for added enjoyment. Don't invest in expensive toys until you get to know your puppy and what they like to play with (one puppy might like stuffed toys while another might love the rubber toys).
Crate/Kennel- A crate is a very important purchase when acquiring a puppy, it will help with their housebreaking, teach them how to be alone, and give them a place they feel safe. There are two main types of crates that you will find in most pet stores and there are pros and cons to each, depending on your personal needs. The first is a plastic kennel that is mostly enclosed with vents on the sides and usually a metal door on the front. The second would be a wire crate that is usually made of black or silver metal and is more like an open "cage" if you will. Below are areas to consider when purchasing a crate and which one performs better in that area.
Travel- If you will be doing any flying, most plastic kennels are airline approved while the metal crates are not. However, if you tend to travel by car, a wire crate might be the better option because it folds up to the size of a suitcase when not being used.
Sizing- Large Breed Puppy or Toy Breed? If you are shopping for a large breed dog, you may want to look into the wire crates because they come with a "divider Panel" which allows you to purchase only one crate (the one they will eventually fit at full size) and allow it to grow with them. Whereas with the plastic crate you will likely end up with a stair-step display of several crates at your next garage sale. If you have a toy breed you can probably find a crate that will work for them from puppyhood to adulthood without a divider panel.
Cleaning- This is one category where both types have pros so you must decide which one is more important to you. A wire crate can be very helpful when first housetraining a puppy because the bottom tray slides right out for easy cleaning. However since it is so open, it may not contain the mess to your puppy's crate, depending on how active your puppy has been. The plastic kennel is nice in the sense that it does keep pet messes more contained as well as any dog hair or dirt that may be in the kennel. However, they are much harder to clean. You must either take the crate apart, or crawl inside it to clean it while your dog looks at you like you've gone mad. :)
Den-like?- For some dogs, the plastic kennel may be more comforting to them because it better represents their idea of a "den" which would be more enclosed than the wire cages. However, some dogs do not relish in the extra confining feeling of the plastic kennel and may enjoy the openness of a wire crate instead.
Dog Bed- What's cuter than going to the store and buying the cutest little dog bed for the cutest little puppy in the whole world? Not having to clean up what seems like enough stuffing for your own bed strewn all over your house…Time and time again, I have new puppy owners ask me why their little poochie tore apart their bed and here is my answer. What do most of their toys look like? Stuffing covered with fabric What is their bed made of? Stuffing covered with fabric. So until your new best friend has gotten through his teething stage, gets the idea of potty training, AND has learned a few manners, beds are best left in areas where they are fully supervised and NOT in their kennel with them.
Grooming Supplies- It's hard to believe when you bring that 8 week puppy home that he will eventually be a lot hairier, and stinkier at times. So, grooming supplies often get pushed to the backburner and replaced with more fun ,cutesy puppy items like sweaters or little doggie hats. However, since your new bundle of fur will need grooming later in life, it makes your life easier to get him used to it sooner rather than later. It's not unlike giving newborn babies baths, they don't crawl around in the dirt yet so they don't get that dirty. But imagine trying to introduce a new thing called baths when they do start crawling, what a nightmare that would be! So you should make grooming routines a habit when your puppy is very young because they will accept it as a normal part of life. A list of grooming supplies you will need depending on what breed you have chosen are:
Nail trimmers-I cannot stress enough how important it is to get them used to this routine as early as possible!
Brush/Comb- there are different brushes and combs depending on the length and texture of your dogs hair. Most of them are labeled to help you choose but feel free to ask someone who works there.
Shampoo- I would recommend a puppy shampoo that is gentle and tearless to avoid a bad first impression of baths.
Toothbrush and toothpaste-yes I said a toothbrush for your dog. Now before you stop reading this thinking I am some crazy person who thinks dogs are people, consider this: If you brush your dog's teeth you may be able to avoid the possibility of your dogs teeth rotting and falling out prematurely or a possible "professional" cleaning by your vet. The first option requires you to "cook" for your dog so he doesn’t have to chew his food seeing as how he has no teeth. The second option requires a vet to put your dog under anesthesia to professionally clean his teeth. That is not only nerve wracking but expensive as well.
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