In the years that I have been helping the public with their puppies, house
training is probably the most widespread issue for dog owners. So what are the
secrets to getting a perfectly potty trained pup? 

TOP TEN HOUSETRAINING MISTAKES

1. RUSHING IT- most pet owners expect their puppy to be totally potty trained
within a few weeks (or even a few days) of getting the puppy. The best way to
prepare for potty training your puppy is to commit  the first year of their life
to making sure they are 100% potty trained. While most dogs do accomplish this
goal  long before their 1st birthday, some puppies will take every bit of that
first year.  How long it takes your puppy to learn potty training depends on a
few factors including where you got the dog, how they were facilitating house
training, how reliable and consistent you are, and genetics of the dog. I know a
year sounds like a long time but If we commit to a year, we will be thrilled
when it only takes 4 months. Besides, I would rather spend the first year
commited to potty training and enjoy 14 more years of accident-free living than
rush potty training and endure 14 more years of surprises when I come home from
work.


2. POTTY TRAINING OR BEHAVIORIAL?- This is the first evaluation dog owners
need to make when their dogs are having accidents in the house. Ask yourself
this question, do you believe the dog truly doesn’t understand the concept that
he is supposed to go outside, or does your dog have accidents when he is upset
with you? If he is having accidents as a way to get back at you, that is a
behavioral issue and needs to be addressed with formal training. *NOTE- just
because your dog acts sorry when you find the accident DOES NOT mean he knows he
shouldn't do it. It simply means he knows your upset, he may have no clue WHY
you are upset.

 3. INDOOR POTTY TRAINING- This is going to upset some people but I believe
that the new forms of "indoor" potty training (potty pads, litter boxes, potty
patches, etc.), is confusing some of our puppies. Now don’t misunderstand me, I
am not saying you cannot choose one of these options or that they cannot learn
them. However, I am definitely saying it makes it more complicated for the dog
to learn, therefore taking more time, consistency, and patience. Think about the
difference between traditional house training and indoor potty training and
remember we have to communicate all of this non verbally. Traditional
housetraining: You do not potty inside, you potty outside. Indoor Housetraining:
You can potty outside, and inside, but only in designated areas. Oh, and those
designated areas look a lot like other household items like towels, newspapers,
door mats, etc. So before you decide indoor potty training would make your life
easier, consider the way sit will make it more difficult for your dog to
learn.

4. CRATE TRAINING- Not that long ago, crate training was very common when
getting a puppy. However, in the new days of dog ownership we are often told
that crates are cruel. I am here to tell you, dogs LOVE their crates. They are
den animals that draw a feeling of comfort and security from their "den" or
crate. (For more on this topic, watch for my upcoming blog entry "Crate
training: Puppy Prison or Pooch Palace?") Not only do they enjoy their crate, it
is also a very helpful building block for potty training. They have a natural
tendency toward not soiling their den. If you can start with that building
block, you can then very easily expand that idea to your entire house.

 5. FENCED IN YARDS-While fenced in yards are a wonderful convenience when you
have a fully housetrained dog, they can wreak havoc on our housetraining by
making us lazy.  Why would we take our pup out on a leash on that cold wet
morning when we have a fence to contain them? The answer is because without some
supervision and guidance, your puppy will spend the next 15 minutes playing in
the yard instead of pottying. You will invite him back in and be astounded when
he almost immediately has an accident. In the beginning stages of his training,
he needs to go out on a lead, take care of business, and then can be let off
leash to play. This not only avoids accidents in the house but it also teaches
your dog to get their business taken care of quickly so they can play. (Not
unlike asking your kids to do their homework before playing video games).

 6. WHEN TO REWARD?- So you are taking your puppy out on a leash like a  good
owner right?  Did you remember to put a treat in your pocket? While some decide
a "Good Boy" is sufficient, treats can  give incentive  to the dog to go. But
more important than which type of reward you choose is when they get said
reward. Many owners take the dog out, it potties, they return inside to the
cookie jar and he gets rewarded. What do you think the dog is associating the
treat with? Going inside. So you are teaching your dog that all he wants to do
when you send him outside is come back inside.

 7. SUPERVISION- Because discipline can get "hairy"( we will cover discipline
in a moment) potty training needs to be as close to error free learning as
possible,  so supervision is KEY. Until dogs are 100% potty trained they must be
100% supervised when loose in the house. Until dogs are 100% potty trained they
must be 100% supervised when loose in the house. Until dogs are 100% potty
trained they must be 100% supervised when loose in the house. Sorry, just wanted
to make sure you understood how important this point is. Next time you are
outside, count how long it takes your puppy to pee from the time it squats until
the time it stops peeing. It will probably be around 5 seconds.This means that
even if your puppy wanders into an adjacent room for 5 SECONDS ONLY, he could
have an accident that you wont discover until later. What if you never discover
that little pee spot he made under your bed? He just learned that it is
acceptable to go in the house( at least under your bed) because there were no
consequences for his actions. Lack of supervision undoes all the hard work you
have been doing potty training your puppy.

 8. FREE FEED- Even if you have that special puppy who only eats his fill and
no more, you must not leave food out all the time for him to nibble at. Dogs
have what is called a gastrocolic reflex. That is a fancy way of saying that
after they eat, they feel the need to go to the bathroom, even if they only
chomped a few kernels. This is why scheduled feeding times are so important when
potty training. If they have a scheduled time to eat, you can be sure to take
them out afterward. If they are free to graze on their dog food whenever they
wish, when do you take them outside?

 9. RECOGNIZING WHEN TO TAKE THEM OUTSIDE- In order to achieve error free
learning, we need to be able to recognize when they are about to go, intervene
and get them to the correct area to go (outside). In order to do this we must
not only take them out at certain times that the will probably need to go, but
also watch them for signs that they might need to go. First, you should always
take your puppy out and give it the chance to go potty: when they wake up, when
they eat, when they drink, when they play very hard, and when you get them out
of their crate. Outside of those, you should watch your puppy for signs it needs
to go including circling, sniffing, or stopping and hunching over. Once your pup
has begun to learn the importance of making it outside, he will begin to try to
"tell" you he needs to go. It is very important that we do not let them down
when they try to tell us, or they will no longer care where they go because they
assume you no longer care either. Your dog will try one of two methods: go to
the door, or come to you. If they come to you, you simply have to make sure you
are paying  attention to them. However, if they go to the door, you MUST find a
way to be notified of this. My house is small enough that I can see the door my
dogs go to from just about anywhere. However, if you have a larger house, you
may want to train your dog to ring a bell to let you know he is sitting at the
door. Otherwise you might find the accident right by the door because they were
waiting on you to come open the door!

 10. DISCIPLINE- Possibly the most difficult aspect of potty training is when
and how to address the mistakes they  do have. Our goal as their trainer is to
have error free learning because anytime you discipline them for going to the
bathroom you run the risk of your puppy becoming ashamed to go in front of you.
This does not teach them to go outside, it teaches them to hide from you when
they need to go. Not only will they start having accidents in rooms you are not
in very often, but they will have stage fright when you go outside with them.
These side effects make potty training VERY difficult. How we handle accidents
depend on where the puppy is in the act of pottying. 
If you catch the dog right BEFORE it starts to go, say "Eh!" or "No!" loudly, get the puppy outside, and as he finishes going outside, praise him. This gives him the contrast he needs (inside=bad, outside=good). 
If he is already pottying when you see him, follow the above steps and take him outside even if he is finished going. Then put him in his crate while you clean up the mess, when you get him back out of his crate take him outside again and try to get him to potty outside before he is allowed to run around inside again.
If you find an accident he has already made and you don't know how long it has been there clean it up. Don't address the dog at all but realize that YOU just messed up by not supervising your puppy well enough and you just un-did some of the training you have been working so hard on.

 IF YOU BELIEVE YOU HAVE TRIED ALL THESE METHODS AND HOUSETRAINING IS STILL NOT WORKING, OR IF YOU FEEL YOUR DOG'S ISSUES ARE BEHAVIORAL I WOULD BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO HELP YOU ACCOMPLISH YOUR GOALS. GIVE ME A CALL!
785.408.6127

  We have all been there one time or another, the weather is crappy for several days in a row and our dogs start to get cabin fever (and probably us too).  Whether it’s a full month of 100 degree heat in the summer, or 2 feet of snow on the ground in the middle of winter, we are often left wondering how to keep our dogs busy indoors. Let's face it, they are kind of like kids, if you don’t give them something to do they will find something to do and nine times out of ten it won't be what you would want them to do, right?

Well there is a new activity you can do with your dog that is becoming more and more popular called scent discrimination. Scent Discrimination is nothing new, we have seen police dogs for many years sniffing out narcotics or explosives. Lately, dog owners have been taking to this activity with their own dogs. They train their dog to "go find" the smell they have been given. These dogs aren't searching for narcotics but possibly peppermint oil, or even a dog treat! Dog owners everywhere are finding out exactly why it is so much fun:

1. Any dog can do it (they all have noses!)
2. It doesn't require very much equipment
3. It can be done indoors or outdoors
4. It is physically and mentally challenging for the dog.
5. Its fun!

Sure there are some breeds that are known for their ability to follow smells (bloodhounds immediately come to mind) but any dog can be taught to use its nose and be quite good at it. I have been working on scent discrimination with my Corgi, a breed developed for working cattle and companionship, not for using their nose. However, she constantly amazes me at how well she can find things by using her nose!

Scent discrimination is also great because it does not require very much equipment. Some dog owners are discouraged when they try to get involved in activities with their dog because they don’t have the space to store the equipment. Try having an agility course set up in an apartment! On the contrary, scent discrimination only requires you, your dog, and smells (although you might want to be the one to choose the smells you use, not your dog unless you like the smell of liver or dead rabbit!)

One of the greatest things about scent work is that you can practice it anywhere. Rainy day? Practice in your living room. Houseful of relatives visiting? Take it to your backyard. Beautiful sunny day? Go to the local park and practice there!

Perhaps the most beneficial reason to participate in this activity is the positive effect it has on your dog. Sometimes  a dog that is being mischievous simply needs something to do. One of the biggest mistakes people can make is only worrying about their dogs physical exercise. The truth is mental exercise is just as important for your pooch. They need to be challenged physically and mentally to be fulfilled. If set up correctly, this activity can take care of both those needs. Which results in a happier canine and a happier owner!

Finally, scent discrimination is FUN! It is unlike some of the other activities you can do with your dog because you really get to see their thought processes. You are not teaching them how to use their nose, they do that innately. You are honing a skill they already possess and guiding it in the direction you want them to use it. You might even be surprised at the practical applications of this activity. One of my students used her dog to sniff out the leather collar his "sister" always seemed to lose in the yard. If this sounds interesting to you and your dog, give me a call!

  Wouldn't it be great if, when we decided to get a new dog, we could invite our friends and family over one weekend and they would bring us all the supplies we need for our new bundle of…eh…fur? They could wrap up little toys and leashes in cute bone shaped boxes. There would be a shiny new dog kennel sitting in the corner of the room with a  big baby blue or pink bow on it. We could serve up a cake in the shape of a doggie paw and play games like "chase your tail" or  that ever so popular relay game "Dress the puppy blindfolded". Okay, back to reality. Unfortunately, showers are reserved for weddings and babies so here is a list to help you get started on your journey!:

Leash & Collar: 6 foot nylon leash is the most versatile for all breeds. I feel that the 4 foot leashes are too short for an enjoyable walk once they learn how to walk politely on a lead. If you are uncomfortable with them 6 feet away from you, they may need some leash walking lessons!  A simply nylon buckle collar is all you need for your new puppy. If you are contemplating a harness because you don’t want them to pull and hurt themselves, you are better off training them not to pull while walking because a harness can make them pull more, which could hurt you!  For their first collar you are better off going with something inexpensive because they will grow out of it. Save the fancy collar for when they are done growing!

ID Tag/Microchipping: Most pet stores will have a machine that engraves I.D. tags for your pet's collar. I would recommend getting one of these made as well as checking at your vet's office about a procedure called microchipping. It is a procedure where a microchip the size of a grain of rice is embedded under their skin (usually between the shoulder blades) that identifies you as their owner. Most shelters and vets offices have scanners to help identify lost pets with microchips. It is also an added precaution against theft because a dog-napper can easily remove a collar and I.D. tag but cannot remove a microchip!

Food: I could definitely get into a long discussion about quality foods but if you want more in depth advice, please let me know as I will try to keep it short here. The bottom line is find a good quality food, it is worth the price! If the main ingredient is corn there will be more in your pooper scooper than there will be nourishing your dog!

Food Bowl & Water Bowl- If you have a large breed puppy make sure you get a bowl big enough to hold what they will be eating when full grown or you will end up buying another set later!

Treats- If you will be using treats to train your new puppy there are a few things to watch out for in the "Pupperoni Aisle". Treats are actually designed to only be about 10% of your dog's diet so they are often high in fat and sugar content. While training your new puppy, it is very possible that they will be getting more than 10% of their diets in treats so we must pick a nutritious treat. Look for a treat that lists a meat as it's first ingredient. Some treats that will remain anonymous are not only shaped like meat, but named after a meat product and yet have not one meat listed in their ingredients! Secondly, try to find a treat without sugar in them, or at least not listed as the top 5 ingredients (watch out, it isn't always listed as sugar but sometimes under clever names like sucrose :-o). Finally, look for a treat with a lower fat content, you can find treats that are under 10% fat, while others can be almost all fat!

Bones/Chews- It is definitely important to have appropriate items to chew on readily available to your puppy. However, you want to be careful when picking out bones/ chews for them, especially while they are still puppies. While rawhide is a very popular choice among dog owners, it is not the best option for your new puppy. Dogs do not digest rawhide very well, which is not a big problem for a dog who slowly chews off tiny pieces of their bone and chews them up well. However, that does not describe most of the puppies I have been around. Most puppies love to bite off huge chunks whenever they can and swallow them.  That rawhide is hard for them to digest and in some instances can cause intestinal blockages. If you are shopping for rawhide, the best option is called "granulated rawhide" it is small pieces compressed together that is designed to break apart easier. However, a better option all together would be chews called "bully sticks" I will leave what they are made out of up to you and a google search, but they are much more digestible and dogs LOVE them!

Flea and Tick Prevention- when shopping for flea and tick prevention for your new puppy, my advice is find what works best for you and your puppy and stick with it! I know that isn't very enlightening but if there is one thing I have learned over the years of talking to pet owners its this: I cannot think of one brand of flea and tick prevention that hasn't been praised by someone I have talked to. Some people swear by the less expensive products while others can't live without the premium stuff. The only insight I can give you is that many veterinarians are now carrying a pill for flea prevention and it works wonderfully in my experience. I use it with my own dog and like that it is a pill instead of a topical treatment because many dogs have had severe reactions to the topical treatments. The pill only works for fleas and not ticks, but it does it's job amazingly well. One last note, if you live in an environment very conducive to the reproduction of fleas or ticks (a woody creek area outside your back door, for instance) no spot on treatment alone will keep your pet safe. You should spray your yard and try to keep it mowed as regularly as possible, in addition to whatever program your pet is on.

Toys- There are many toys made specifically for puppies going through the teething stage, some of them even pop in the freezer for added enjoyment. Don't invest in expensive toys until you get to know your puppy and what they like to play with (one puppy might like stuffed toys while another might love the rubber toys).

Crate/Kennel- A crate is a very important purchase when acquiring a puppy, it will help with their housebreaking, teach them how to be alone, and give them a place they feel safe. There are two main types of crates that you will find in most pet stores and there are pros and cons to each, depending on your personal needs. The first is a plastic kennel that is mostly enclosed with vents on the sides and usually a metal door on the front. The second would be a wire crate that is usually made of black or silver metal and is more like an open "cage" if you will. Below are areas to consider when purchasing a crate and which one performs better in that area.
    Travel- If you will be doing any flying, most plastic kennels are airline approved while the metal crates are not. However, if you tend to travel by car, a wire crate might be the better option because it folds up to the size of a suitcase when not being used.
    Sizing- Large Breed Puppy or Toy Breed? If you are shopping for a large breed dog, you may want to look into the wire crates because they come with a "divider Panel" which allows you to purchase only one crate (the one they will eventually fit at full size) and allow it to grow with them. Whereas with the plastic crate you will likely end up with a stair-step display of several crates at your next garage sale. If you have a toy breed you can probably find a crate that will work for them from puppyhood to adulthood without a divider panel.
    Cleaning- This is one category where both types have pros so you must decide which one is more important to you. A wire crate can be very helpful when first housetraining a puppy because the bottom tray slides right out for easy cleaning. However since it is so open, it may not contain the mess to your puppy's crate, depending on how active your puppy has been. The plastic kennel is nice in the sense that it does keep pet messes more contained as well as any dog hair or dirt that may be in the kennel. However, they are much harder to clean. You must either take the crate apart, or crawl inside it to clean it while your dog looks at you like you've gone mad. :)
    Den-like?- For some dogs, the plastic kennel may be more comforting to them because it better represents their idea of a "den" which would be more enclosed than the wire cages. However, some dogs do not relish in the extra confining feeling of the plastic kennel and may enjoy the openness of a wire crate instead.

Dog Bed- What's cuter than going to the store and buying the cutest little dog bed for the cutest little puppy in the whole world? Not having to clean up what seems like enough stuffing for your own bed strewn all over your house…Time and time again, I have new puppy owners ask me why their little poochie tore apart their bed and here is my answer. What do most of their toys look like? Stuffing covered with fabric What is their bed made of? Stuffing covered with fabric. So until your new best friend has gotten through his teething stage, gets the idea of potty training, AND  has learned a few manners,  beds are best left in areas where they are fully supervised and NOT in their kennel with them.

Grooming Supplies- It's hard to believe when you bring that 8 week puppy home that he will eventually be a lot hairier, and stinkier at times. So, grooming supplies often get pushed to the backburner and replaced with more fun ,cutesy puppy items like sweaters or little doggie hats. However, since your new bundle of fur will need grooming later in life, it makes your life easier to get him used to it sooner rather than later. It's not unlike giving newborn babies baths, they don't crawl around in the dirt yet so they don't get that dirty. But imagine trying to introduce a new thing called baths when they do start crawling, what a nightmare that would be! So you should make grooming routines a habit when your puppy is very young because they will accept it as a normal part of life. A list of grooming supplies you will need depending on what breed you have chosen are:
    Nail trimmers-I cannot stress enough how important it is to get them used to this routine as early as possible!
    Brush/Comb- there are different brushes and combs depending on the length and texture of your dogs hair. Most of them are labeled to help you choose but feel free to ask someone who works there.
    Shampoo- I would recommend a puppy shampoo that is gentle and tearless to avoid a bad first impression of baths.
    Toothbrush and toothpaste-yes I said a toothbrush for your dog. Now before you stop reading this thinking I am some crazy person who thinks dogs are people, consider this: If you brush your dog's teeth you may be able to avoid the possibility of your dogs teeth rotting and falling out prematurely or a possible "professional" cleaning by your vet. The first option requires you to "cook" for your dog so he doesn’t have to chew his food seeing as how he has no teeth. The second option requires a vet to put your dog under anesthesia to professionally clean his teeth. That is not only nerve wracking but expensive as well.

  Growing up in a family of dog trainers, handlers, breeders, and dog show judges, I have been training dogs for as long as I can remember. I have now been blessed with the opportunity to help others understand our canine companions through Camo Cross Dog Training. This blog is a mash up of different topics that I feel should be shared with dog owners, or anyone who is thinking about getting a dog. Some of the ideas expressed in this blog are controversial. Because I am the author of this blog, my views will dominate these entries but that does not mean my view is the ONLY view. I only hope that this blog is educational and allows dog owners to learn more about me as a trainer.  Thanks for reading!