One of the aspects of training that I find myself highlighting the most is breaking down your goals into steps. As dog owners, we tend to see the end result in our heads as we set about the task of teaching our dog something new and immediately work at getting that end result. When in reality, we should break that goal down into steps and do one step at a time.

In fact, it's not a bad idea to sit down with a paper and pen before you EVER look at your dog. At the top of the paper, write your goal. Beside your goal come up with set criteria for said goal. You should have a clear idea in your head of what EXACTLY you want from your dog before you try to get them to do it. Below that break it down into several steps, even if they seem miniscule (see example below). Then you should decide (and write down) how YOU will communicate to your dog what you would like (be specific!). Finally, get your dog out and go about each step one at a time. Below is an example of a command that some dogs pick up on in a flash, and some take weeks to get the hang of, broken down into steps. Even, if your dog performs the first step without a problem one time, it is a good idea to repeat it several times to make sure it wasn't just a fluke. Your dog should be performing current step with at least 80% accuracy before you even think about moving to the next step.

GOAL: (what do I want my dog to do?): My dog will lie down
CRITERIA: (what does it look like?):"Down" is when my dog has both its front end and back end on the ground, back feet under him, front feet in front of him and he maintains this position until I release him by saying "That'll Do"
PREREQUISITE: My dog has a reliable "Sit". His butt will not come up off the ground until I release him.

STEP ONE:My dog lowers his head to the ground while leaving his butt on the ground
(how? I will lure him with a treat to get him to lower his head, when he does, he gets the treat)
STEP TWO: My dog keeps his butt and head down AND will bring one foot forward
(how? I will lure him to bring his head down, then pull the treat slightly forward and at a diagonal away from the foot we want to come forward)
STEP THREE: My dog keeps his butt down, head down, foot forward, then brings the other foot forward
(how? I will lure him to bring his head down, one foot forward, then pull the treat slightly forward on a diagonal away from the second foot)
STEP FOUR: My dog keeps his butt down, head down, feet forward, and assumes a "Down" Position
(how? I will lure him with a treat to bring head down, both feet forward and then bring the treat just slightly back toward him to get him to rest his chest on the floor)
STEP FIVE: Once my dog is assuming a "down" position, I will then add the release word before he gets up.
(how? Once I have lured him into a down, I will keep that treat in the same spot until I say his release word and then I will say "That'll Do" and move the treat so he has to get up to get it, therefore teaching him his release means he can get up)
STEP SIX: I will begin varying when I say the release word and correct him when he gets up before saying the release word
(how? I will move the treat BEFORE saying the release word and correct him back into a down anytime he gets up before I say the word "That'll Do").
STEP SEVEN: GOAL MET!!

Wow! That is a lot of work! Seven steps to teach a beginner level down! Am I crazy?!

No, I just want to spend more time being successful than being unsuccessful. When you first begin teaching a dog something new, your goal should be 100% success rate. Since the dog doesn't know what you want, it is up to you to set up the situation and break down the goal into small enough steps that your dog is successful in each repetition. The way I see it, you have two choices:

1. Go into it flying by the seat of your pants and taking a chance that your dog will "accidentally" learn it.
2. Perform the exercise above, and be fully prepared to break the GOAL down into tiny steps.
What is more likely to happen with the first choice is that, out of the first 10 repetitions, your dog may get it right twice. So, you just spent 8 repetitions teaching what it ISN'T and 2 repetitions of teaching what it IS. Not only is this very inefficient, it will usually break down the dog's confidence and they will end up quitting because you have convinced them that they aren't good at this "training thing".

Additionally, I believe your dog will learn that you are not very good at this "teaching thing", and not be as responsive to you even when you try to teach them another command entirely! Many of my clients say I get a "magical response" from their dogs that they cannot achieve. Some say it's because of my delicious treats (although a lot of the time I am using the same treats as the owner!). I believe it is because I try very hard to set the dog (and me!) up to be successful in everything I do so that they do not lose faith in my ability to communicate to them how to get rewarded.

The second choice is the clear winner, even if your dog learns "Down" very easily. Let's say you do all the prep work above, you get ready to work with your dog, and as you lure his head down toward the floor, he lays down on the first try! You may kick yourself for writing an essay on how to teach down when it came so easily to your dog but isn't it better to be safe than sorry? Besides, if you are more realistic about how many steps it could take, and they do it in fewer steps, you will be proud of how smart your pooch is and isn't that a great thing?

I have clients who I have had this discussion with several times and they still have trouble expecting too much, too soon. So why do we fight this "break it down small" idea? Well I am much more qualified to tell you why a DOG does what it does than a human, but I will give it a shot!

I think one reason is that it is human nature to believe everyone thinks the same way you do. Imagine I gave you the task of teaching another human to lay down on command in a language they didn't understand. You would probably assume that it would be easy for them to guess what you were wanting them to do (hey, it's easy when you have all the answers!). You would probably strive for the end result instead of steps toward the end result.

The second reason is one of my soapboxes so get ready for my humble opinion on today's society! We live in an instant gratification world. Not only do we get what we want at a touch of a button (wait, we don't even have buttons anymore, we have touch screens!), but our technology automatically does what we ask of it, at least most of the time. But don't forget there are geniuses behind the scenes that developed a language for us to communicate with that technology so we didn't have to actually learn the computer language ourselves. So, in a way we have a constant interpreter for our gadgets. Because of this technology, or maybe human nature in general, we are frustrated when:

1. We cannot control something (how many of you had wished you had an "Undo" 
    button in real life?)
2. We don't get results immediately.

It's because of this control/instant gratification that many times we push our dogs to pick up on things faster than they can possibly learn. We wait until we are fed up with their behavior and need them to learn our commands immediately, not gradually. The funny thing is, a lot of the time being in a hurry actually makes the learning process take longer because we have to go back and fill in the gaps we skimmed over while hurrying through the training process.

Unfortunately, this also works against what our end goal should be: A thinking dog.

A dog who looks at a situation and tries to figure out what behavior from him would please you (and possibly earn him a reward). My training has always gone further than just dogs who simply respond to your commands, I want a dog who offers me behaviors he thinks I will like. In order to achieve this, you have to convince him he is good at this skill. Expecting immediate results is a recipe for lowering confidence not building it.

So do me a favor, (and your dog!), anytime you want to teach your dog something new, take a minute to do the prep work, not only will it make your dog happy, it will make your training more efficient!

Spend more time teaching what it IS, instead of what it ISN'T!




Kelli Bausch
Camo Cross Dog Training
"Unlocking the Potential in Your Best Friend"
785.408.6127
www.camocrossdogtraining.com

We have all used this term but few take the time to think about where the name came from (including me!) The Romans referred to the dog days as diēs caniculārēs and associated the hot weather with the star Sirius. They considered Sirius to be the "Dog Star" because it is the brightest star in the constellation  Canis Major (Large Dog). Sirius is also the brightest star in the night sky. The Dog Days originally were the days when Sirius rose just before or at the same time as sunrise. (For even more background, visit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dog_Days).  While this old adage actually refers to a star and not a dog, the dog days of summer definitely have an effect on our pets and how we care for them. There are special hazards that we must keep in mind through the summer months and this week we will discuss what the dog days of summer should mean to you and your dog.

Parasites: While this should be a concern all year long, parasite protection becomes even more important during the summer months when fleas and ticks are out in force. There are several different ways to protect your dog against these parasites that carry diseases. First, be sure to keep your yard neatly mowed and weeded. You may be surprised that your landscaping abilities can effect your dog's health! Fleas and ticks like tall vegetation because it provides them with moisture and shelter from the hot sun so the taller  the vegetation, the better they can grow and multiply (Eeck!). Next, consider treating your yard with a flea and tick yard treatment, especially if you live near a water source like a creek or pond. It has been my experience that the treatments you give directly to your dog can only do so much when your yard is flea and tick heaven. Be sure the treatment you buy is safe for your pets! Most are safe once they have dried. Finally, it's time to decide what kind of treatment to buy for your dog. There are several options out there, the first being what is referred to as a Spot-On Treatment. Spot-Ons are oily liquid capsules that you run down the dogs back and the treatment seeps down into their skin. I have never endorsed one brand over another because I have not found one that works the best on ALL dogs (I tend to say that I think spot on treatments work kind of like perfume in that it depends on who is wearing it as to what exact smell will arise). I personally do not care for the spot-on simply because of the mess. I have a 16 month old son and keeping him away from the dogs until they are no longer greasy is next to impossible. That is why I have been using a pill called Comfortis. This is a FLEA ONLY preventitive, meaning it will not protect against ticks but boy it does it do its job on the fleas! I have been totally impressed with the effectiveness of this product. Visit www.comfortis4dogs.com for more information. Finally, a newer product that I have had very little experience with but has been performing successfully so far is Trifexis. This is also a pill form that protects against fleas, heartworms, and intestinal worms. Visit www.trifexis.com for more information on this product.

Cars: We all know how much our pooches love to go for their R-I-D-E (it is pretty amazing how many owners actually have to spell it out in order to avoid an over joyous reaction from their pups at the mere mention of the word). However, in the dog days of summer, taking them along while you run errands isn't the best idea. Cars can quickly reach 120 degrees inside or higher on a 80-90 degree day. Even if you leave your windows rolled down, the air circulation is still not equivalent to being outside and it will get hot pretty quickly. If your dog lives to go for his ride, set aside time that is specifically for taking him out for his daily treat. Just drive around the block! Your neighbors might think your crazy but I guarantee your dog won't even notice that you didn't actually leave the neighborhood! If you must run some errands in town and need to take your dog along, many vets offer day boarding services or make them an appointment at the salon to have a spa day while you run your errands!

Shade: Make sure anytime your dog is outside, he has easy access to a shady spot, even if he will only be out there for a minute. It is easy to lose track of time and forget to bring your dog in. Its better to be safe than sorry when it comes to this rule. Also, be smart about when you choose to exercise your dog. Their daily walks would be best moved to early morning or late evening to avoid the sun and the hot pavement! Next time you are out for a walk, reach down and touch the pavement and imagine how it would feel on your bare feet!

Water: Dogs should have a constant supply of fresh water available all year around but it is especially important during the summer months. Just like with us, dogs need to be able to cool their bodies to avoid overheating. While they don't sweat quite like we do, they do pant which depletes their water reserves just like sweating does us. Also remember that dogs are more likely to play/get into their water buckets during the summer months to try and cool off so make sure you check it often!

Allergies: This issue is overlooked quite often but dogs can have seasonal allergies just like we can!  Allergens can range from fleas to ragweed but dogs tend to get really itchy skin instead of sneezing like we do so if your dog has suddenly started scratching or biting at himself a lot he may be suffering from allergies. For more information on what causes allergies, what they look like, and treatment options visit:  http://www.homevet.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=386%3Aallergies-and-the-itchy-pet&Itemid=38

Summer hair cut- Some dogs can rock a little shorter 'do during the summer months which can really help them deal with the heat. If your dog's hair grows longer or is very thick you may want to consider getting them trimmed up for the summer. Especially breeds that were developed to live in much cooler climates than you may live in. Your dog will thank you!

Sunscreen- If your dog has short or light colored hair (or maybe no hair at all like the Chinese Crested!), it isn't a bad idea to consider sunscreen for your dog if they are going to be out in the sun for a prolonged period of time. Dogs' skin can sunburn just like humans and anyone who has had a sunburn knows that isn't fun!

Fireworks- A side effect of summer that some people overlook is the 4th of July Holiday. While this has little to do with the heat, it is still an important summer factor when owning a dog. Some dogs can become very spooked by the noise, sight or even smell of fireworks. So spooked that the number of runaway dogs jumps around this time of year. There have been many, many stories of dogs going missing after getting spooked by fireworks so make sure you know how your dog feels about them. If your dog doesn't like fireworks, you can do your best to classically condition him to enjoy them more. You may also want to make sure your dog is put away in a safe place before the fireworks begin.  Ideally, in a room where the sound of the fireworks is as muffled as possible.

Finally, I would like to leave you with a few signs to watch for that could indicate that your dog is suffering from heatstroke. If you feel that your dog is exhibiting these  behaviors, get him to his Veterinarian immediately:

Signs of Heatstroke

• Panting
• Staring
• Anxious expression
• Refusal to obey commands
• Warm, dry skin
• High fever
• Rapid heartbeat
• Vomiting
• Collapse

  Many people who own a dog have children, many people who own a dog get a dog FOR their children, heck, many people who own a dog ARE children. It is because of this that I often get asked questions regarding children and dogs. How do we get the dog to listen to our child?, How can we teach the dog not to play rough with our kids?, and the list goes on. So here are some helpful tips regarding dogs and children!

Involve your child in the acquisition process- The first topic I would like to address is before you have acquired the dog, so if you already have a dog you may skip this section, or read it for future reference! If you are considering getting a new dog, sit down and talk with your child about the idea of having a dog beforehand. If you feel your child is responsible enough to have his own dog, it is even more important to sit down and talk about ALL of the responsibilities that come with having a dog. I think it is a great idea to put together a "contract" that lists all the needs they will need to meet for their dog. Here are just a few responsibilities that can be included:
    Meals (who feeds the dog and when?)
    Bathroom breaks/walks (who walks the dog and when?)
    Training sessions (If your child is old enough, have them commit to a group training class once a week. In addition to the class, two 15 minute training sessions a day.)
    Playtime (what games will you play with the dog and when?)
    Grooming (who will groom the dog and how often?)

Once you and your child have agreed on who is responsible for meeting your new dog's needs, then start researching breeds. There are breeds that are known for being better with children than others because of their temperament, energy level, size, etc. so do your homework and narrow the list down to a few candidates. Even if you are planning on going to the shelter to adopt (GREAT IDEA!), having a list of breeds you are interested in will help you pick the best dog for you once you get there, even if it is a mix breed (i.e. you may go to the shelter looking for a Labrador Retriever and end up falling in love with a Lab mix). Make sure you have an honest discussion with your child about the specific needs for  each breed you are considering. If your child does not enjoy brushing or grooming than a long haired dog may not be a good pick. If your child does not have a lot of time to exercise the dog or take it for walks, you definitely do not want to look at breeds that have high energy levels.

Teach your child how dogs communicate- humans are very verbal communicators,  while dogs actually use verbal communication as a last resort. Dogs rely much more heavily on body language in order to communicate. Therefore, they pick up on subtle cues from humans that most of us are not even aware that we are giving! This is especially true of children who typically give off play signals unintentionally and then get upset when the dog jumps up on them or mouths them.
It is important to teach your puppy that he isn't allowed to react that way no matter what "signals" he picks up. However, perhaps even more important is  the opportunity it gives you to teach your child how to act around ALL dogs, even those that are not trained. It is a constant struggle for me to teach my 15 month old son how to respect dogs since my dogs are so "bullet proof" my corgi will let Clayton do practically anything to her (including sticking his fingers up her nose, pulling on her ears, and riding her like a pony), however I don't want him to grow up thinking ALL dogs will allow him to do that to them. Not to mention the fact that it isn't nice to do even if they let you! Here are some of the biggest miscommunications between dogs and kids:
    Running: Whether it is because they are playing outside or they are running to get away from the dog, dogs love to play chase games. So when your child is running across the yard playing by himself, he should anticipate that running will make the dog want to join in on the fun. If the dog is already chasing them and they run, they are literally saying, "Come get me!", in dog language. Help your child understand that the best way to calm the dog down is actually by standing still.
    Screaming/Yelling: Another popular response from kids is screaming/yelling. Whether they are yelling because they are having fun or because the dog has upset them, kids tend to yell in a higher octave than adults. Dogs translate higher octaves as excitement and happiness so their yelling just gets the dog even more excited. Think about what we do to our voice when we "sweet talk" our dogs, its sort of a sing-song, higher octave, tone of voice. Have your kids practice using their "in charge" voice. They should practice saying your dog's negative marker word (what you say to your dog when he does something undesirable) in as low an octave as possible. Have them practice this without the dog present at first. 
    Holding a Toy just out of reach: Boy do kids love to do this one! Perhaps its because they are so tired of everything being out of their reach that they want someone to know how it feels? I choose not to believe that it is an innate behavior for kids to tease animals but it does seem to come so naturally to some! A child will pick up a toy that the dog is playing with, hold it just out of the dog's reach, and then they are totally surprised when the dog jumps up/on them to get the toy and knocks the child down. Work with your dog on a reliable "drop it" command and teach your kids how to play fetch with your dog. Make sure they know that when you take a toy away from the dog that toy should either be put away or given back to the dog, not held just out of the dog's reach.

Playbiting Withdrawal: When a puppy playbites or mouths you or your kids, your first instinct is to dramatically withdraw and yelp (those puppy teeth are sharp!) However, this actually sends the wrong message to your dog. If you observe two puppies playing, one will playbite the other, bitten puppy will jump backwards, and biter will pursue bitten puppy even more. So, in dog language, withdrawing with a yelp actually means "game on!" The best way to handle playbiting is to say your negative marker word (remind them to say it as deeply as possible and not "yelp" the NMW) and not move a muscle. Why do animals play dead in the wild? Because the other animal is more likely to leave them alone if they don't react. This even works on people! My husband is less likely to give me a hard time if I don't react when he tries to get a rise out of me.  It may be difficult to get your children to sit still while your dog mouths them, as I said before, those puppy teeth are sharp! If this is the case, it may be best for the parents to work on decreasing the playbiting, and then have the child follow suit.

Include your child in the training process: Many dog owners who enroll in my training sessions ask me if they can bring their children along to the lessons. Depending on the child's maturity level (age means very little), I encourage kids to come to the lessons. I think it is VERY important for the child to learn how to handle the dog appropriately. In my training sessions, I stress the importance of not just telling the dog what he CAN'T do but also telling him what he CAN do. What I find common with kids is that they are very good at spotting behavior they DON'T like in their furry companion but not so good at telling the dog what it SHOULD HAVE done. I believe this is because most kids don't know what the dog SHOULD do. An example would be a dog who likes to jump only on the kids, there are probably several reasons for this (some are listed above). However perhaps the biggest culprit is that when the dog jumps on the kids, the kids tend to get upset at the dog, but not communicate to the dog what he should have done in that situation (i.e. perhaps sitting would be better than jumping).

Kids do not have to be taught what a dog shouldn't do, they know naturally that they don't like the dog jumping up on them or biting them. They often do not know what a dog should do, like sit to ask for attention. Attending training sessions with their dog will teach your child what the dog should do. My nephew was only 2 years old when I asked him if he wanted to feed our dog "Rocky" a treat. As soon as I handed him the treat he whirled around to Rocky and said "Sit!" and Rocky did. He knew my dogs have to sit to get their treats so we had no trouble with Rocky jumping up or pushing him over to get the treat because Darren communicated to Rocky what he was supposed to do, therefore avoiding what he was NOT supposed to do.

Step in for your child, but only when absolutely necessary: One question I get quite often is, how much should I let my child handle on his own and how much should I step in and help him when the dog is not cooperating? There is no tried and true formula to determine how much parent interaction is helpful/hindering but there are two main things you want to keep in mind. The first is why we DON'T want to continually step in, the second, why sometimes we MUST step in.

It's hard not to step in and help your child every time they have trouble getting your dog to behave, but if you do this too much it can be harmful to the relationship between your child and your dog. When you continually intervene, the dog is learning that he only has to behave and listen to your child when YOU are around. If the consequences come from you instead of your child, the dog will know there are no consequences when you are in the other room. It is important that whenever possible, your child takes the necessary steps to make sure the dog behaves appropriately (this is determined by your child's maturity level, size, and skill level, of course). While your dog is learning he only has to listen to your child when you are around, your child's confidence is diminishing. Seeing you step in every time is going to make them believe they can't do it themselves. Pretty soon your child will not be willing to even attempt to get the dog to behave without your help and will want you to step in ALL the time. What's worse, when your child DOES decide to try, they will not have the confidence to convey to the dog that they are in fact in charge.

So now that I have convinced you to resist the urge to step in, there are times where we MUST step in. So how do we recognize those instances? The reason we must step in sometimes goes back to the confidence factor I mentioned above. When you first begin addressing an issue, results are not going to be immediate. The dog has to have time to learn and change his behavior. The hard part is that children expect immediate results and if they do not see a change in the dog's behavior, they will think what they are doing is not working. In order to set your child up for success, it may be best to work with the dog by yourself initially so that your child sees progress sooner.

Another trick I use is cueing the dog from behind our child. While this does not necessarily teach the dog to listen to the child initially, it can build the child's confidence. My Corgi "Tru" used to only accept commands from me, so when my nephew wanted to ask her to sit, he was disappointed when she did not respond. It would not have taken long for him to give up so I would stand behind him and give the signal without him knowing so he felt successful. Obviously this will not work for all ages of children but it can help build confidence in younger children and I believe that is one of the best ingredients for success. The final, and most important, reason to step in is a matter of safety. If your dog is going to physically hurt your child by jumping on them and knocking them down or playbiting intervene immediately and work with the dog on these issues without your child until they have made progress.

Over the years I have developed lots of tips and tricks to help Parents/Kids/Dogs. So if you or someone you know is not happy with the interactions between their kids and dogs, give me a call I would be happy to help! 785.408.6127 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting            785.408.6127      end_of_the_skype_highlighting